Alba Viticultores

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País: Espanha

Região: Andalucia > Manzanilla-Sanlúcar de Barrameda

Endereço: Monteros,
Sanlúcar de Barrameda
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Alba Viticultores was the effort of four young Andalusian men, from different backgrounds but with the same passion and monomania: the land, the palomino and the vineyard. It was made up of Carmen Caballero, from Ronda and an agricultural engineer; Fernando Angulo, her husband, creator of Champagne-Sherry and who are the only ones still involved in the project; Alejandro Muchada, from Cadiz, a doctor 'cum laude' in architecture whose dream is to become a winegrower; and Miguel Gómez, from San Fernando, oenologist and creator of a red wine made entirely from Rota (Graciano) vats from Pago de Balbaína, called Mahara 2012. In the local slang we could consider them 'majaretas', an affectionate expression that could be equivalent to brilliant minds, passionate, revolutionary and crazy about what they do, and that links up with the name of the red wine I just mentioned, sucking the axe, as the canons command. The four musketeers of the Palomino traced vines, met old winegrowers, investigated old names of estates and vineyards, their origin, meaning, characteristics... They tasted and tried musts, and old camomiles, while dusting old books and looking for stones from the subsoil and analyzing them to see their components. The vineyard (El Armijo) is also owned by Ignacio Partida and has a little more than half a hectare. It is an old listan with about 60 years old. It is located in the highest part of the Pago de Miraflores, right in front of the mythical Castillo de Miraflores vineyard, where the great manzanilla from the 50's and 60's came from. In their small winery-garage in the Barrio Alto they keep small batches of sparkling wines made according to the traditional method and the "sanluqueño method" - with palomino from an ancient clone, in an ancestral way with the second fermentation in the bottle and without adding liqueur de tirage - and other wines with flowers and without flowers that are vinified in plots such as El Campeonísimo, Coronado or Confitero in Pago de Miraflores, Las Alegrías in Pago Carrascal or La Charanga in Mahina and that give name to some of their labels. They have no problem selling their small production (between 500 and 1000 bottles per wine) abroad and to a loyal national clientele made up of wine enthusiasts and some fine restaurants like Aponiente. Many of its admirers would surely be fascinated to see that, in the small winery in Alba, the 'ancestral' concept encompasses much more than just making the sparkling wine. Both the press and the bottling machine or the disgorging of the sparkling wine are done by hand: Fernando leaves the bottle in the freezer for about 6-7 hours until the neck freezes, then he pops the cork, fills the bottle with the same wine and puts in a metal stopper like the ones used for beer, which is the closure that all the bottles have until they are sold. "The cork doesn't interest me. It gives much more work and is more risky", he explains, just before answering a call on his mobile, also an ancestral one, without whatsapp or internet. Nor does he care about the jars, that packaging so fashionable among many natural producers. "I used them for Campeonísimo in 2014 but now I don't. Jars are a lot of work. For me, the simpler, the better". He tries to transfer this philosophy of the essential to his wines, which are normally neither filtered nor clarified and have the minimum or no amount of added sulphur. He also follows biodynamic principles, uses horns, buys preparations and tries to do the work according to the phases of the moon. "When it's a leafy day my wines are more reduced. Even my mother in Ronda notices the effect of the moon: when the croquettes can't be seasoned well, it's because they are discontinuous moments, but from there to not tasting the wine when it's not fruit... In natural wines not everything is worthwhile".


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Alba Viticultores

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